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The Dressing Culture of Uganda
The most popularly worn clothes in Uganda are the kanzu, kikooyi and the busuuti. Of course modern day clothes are worn on a daily basis, especially among the youth who follow the latest trends.
The busuuti is a brightly coloured long printed dress with puffed sleeves that reach the elbows. The busuuti is held in place by an ornate belt/sash called a ‘kitambaala’ placed on the woman’s hips and is tied with a bow in front. Tying the sash involves a distinctive technique comparable to that used when doing a man’s shirt tie and calls for skills in the art form. It is similar to the kimono. An additional thick kilt called kikooyi is often worn as a petticoat with the busuuti. This gives the impression of a fuller figure, a requirement for achieving the desired effect of this glamorous attire.
The kikooyi is a thick, multicoloured piece of cloth, usually predominantly red or maroon-coloured, worn at formal gatherings and celebrations as a long dress with or without sleeves that is belted around the waist like the busuuti. Women often accessorize their traditional cloths with jewellery including elaborate beaded necklaces and bracelets. The kikooyi is also favoured by many regions in Uganda.
The kanzu is a white long gown with a collar-less neck and embroidered red thread that streams down the middle which many men wear on special occasions. Kanzu is worn over trousers and men will on occasion wear a coat/jacket over the kanzu. The Kanzu was adopted from the Arabs who first came to East African coast and Zanzibar.
The Acholi and most groups from northern Uganda traditionally wore wrappers called ‘laa’ made from animal hide. The women wore skirts called ‘ceno’ made from weaving sisal and this was then dyed to available or favoured colours. Today, the men favour western style suits and women wear the busuuti or kikoyi.
Western Uganda groups now wear ‘kitambi’ a floor length skirt and a short sleeveless dress. To this, they add ‘eshuuka’, a floor length shawl that is wrapped round the shoulders or used to cover their faces, as the occasion may require. All Women wrapped their bodies with this garment and were expected to cover their faces.
Also popular are the chitenje’ outfits, also known as the ‘Boubou’ or flowing Nigerian agbada robe. It is a full, free-flowing three-piece gear, which is worn on formal occasions
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